CUBA: La Habana

I have been looking forward to visiting Cuba for as long as I can remember. I do not know when I read my first Hemingway novel. Even at age twelve I was destined to visit this beautiful island. To see travel restrictions lifted in my lifetime is a blessing long awaited.
Cubans take the People to People educational aspect very seriously. I found this enlightening and welcoming in my visit. I appreciated the opportunity to talk one on one with any and all locals that were happy and available to speak wih me about their lovey country.
There are many choices to stay in regards to hotels, Air BnB's, hostels, etc. There are also a range of prices to choose from in accommodations. Something to suit anyone's needs. AirBnB's which run from $60US to high end hotels which start at over $200US (or CUC) per night. The exchange rate is dollar to dollar and it is good to know, they do not accept credit cards. So, come cash ready, but know there are cash agencies all over the city (and in major hotels) that will exchange dollars for CUC.

We have all seen the photos of vintage cars and luxurious hotels back-dropped against the most wondrous sunsets in the world. We have also heard the music, and felt the rhythm as we have watched Cuban men and women salsa and rumba with their very own distinctive style. It is contagious and sexy.

I walked through the streets listening for the music...and it drew me in. At one point I had just sat down in the lobby of a hotel to rest my weary feet when I heard a trumpet, and then the drums. I jumped up and ran towards the street and here they came. It was like the pied piper luring followers through the streets enticing us with each note. The dancers calling to us with their movements and joy.

The art, the music, the people, the costumes, the dance, LIFE. The stories and history. I ate it up like a starved child eats porridge. Oh, and the food. The combination of Caribbean flavors and international food choices was undeniably unique and satisfying. The combination of African Cuban spices and traditional meals are the existence of today's Cuba. Cured meats, sausages, rice and beans. a warm beer. This is a good meal shared among friends and family on this small, beautiful island. We began our food journey at a place called Topoly, an Iranian restaurant within walking distance of our Air BnB. Beautiful environment with great service and the most wonderful fare. I found out a vegetarian burger meant falafel and the spices were mainly middle eastern in taste. We also had the chance to eat at opening night at a place called Area 23 - very much like Tapas, it was small plates with wonderful local flavors. We had mixed sausages and everything had the most taste sensational sensual flavors. The restaurant was family run and also had a great local drink menu. Ambiance and deliciousness all wrapped up in one spot.

The composition of the city itself was easy to discern - Art and vintage defined everything.
The old cars, and bikes, and horses which still pulled goods on trucks and trolleys defined the feel of the mood of Havana. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Seeing a man on a horse, pulling goods on a cart seemed normal. Bicycles in the center square making time to work all seemed normal. Watching the hordes of women get on buses or in cars were the norm. ARE the norm. Because the change of the world around them changed and grew, did nothing to adjust the norm of the traditional day in the life of Cuba. Walking to work. Dropping a quarter into a payphone on the street to telephone a friend - this was still the same day to day as existed 50 years ago and still existed today. This Havana.

 

The cats of Havana were

 an enigma in itself. They were everywhere but unlike cats of other countries, Puerto rico for example, the cats of Havana owned the island. This was their domicile. Every corner, every street alley, every turn, a cat would make eye contact - not move, not adjust for man or tourist. My street, my life...the cats seemed to say, through their eyes - not needing to explain, not needing to own their words. They own their lives. Solely. Proudly.


The art districts and music of Cuba are somewhat historically self-defined, but you can never imagine the richness of the soul of Cuba until you hear it and see it for yourself.  The food as well, has layers and layers of flavors and differences that make the Cuban food game the top of its tier.

Calle de Hamel/Afro Cuban art district

I had coffee on my last morning with the host of the AirBnB which we rented, and it was the most open, honest, relate-able conversation I have had in a long time. It offered not only historic value, but a cultural insight and an immediate comraderie between women which came simply from the context of the conversation and the honesty with which Sol, our host, answered. I hope to have the chance to host her in the future and share with her as she did with me. There are certain things we can always share as human beings; stories of our children, societal issues, history, family pride, food - these things will always connect us when we make time to listen.

Find more travel photos/ video on my youtube channel, Cuba

A great thanks to the people of Cuba for allowing us to visit to see, to share their lives...again.