The Secrets of Amsterdam

Ever since I was a teenager, I have been torn between visiting Amsterdam (and not). The stereotypes of the red light district, and being able to smoke weed, or hash, in public had me terrified. What kind of wild version of my parallel life was this? First impressions from propaganda and third hand stories were too much for my naive mind to comprehend.

traditional windmill

So, down the bucket list it went, getting bumped by destinations like Florence and Rome, Vancouver and Montreal, Copenhagen and Bali. Hell, even Thailand somehow made it on the list before Amsterdam. After visiting so many places that I knew nothing about, I somehow raised my travel bravery bar. I decided it was time to see what all the hubbub was about.

I am so glad I did.


Amsterdam is one of the most outgoing, inviting, international cities I have ever visited. Men and women alike, stopped to talk to me, smiled and even asked me questions. Faces like mine; all shades of human - many shades of multi-ethnic mix. It is beautiful. The men are extremely friendly, on the verge of flirtatious, but I try to never mistake common hospitality for flirtation. Although very much welcomed, from someone accustomed to brushing down busy streets surrounded by people not making eye contact, or receiving a sneer in lieu of a morning smile or a genuine, "good morning." Here, the train conductors are happy to smile, and say, "Good morning Beauty, what can I help you with?"
Not only did the little girl from the midwest find it utterly charming, even the east coast cynic in me had to smile and just take the compliment...and the assistance.

museum district

There is so much to do in Amsterdam, let's start there. The museums, the canals, the tours, the historic architecture - these are all just the beginning of what the canal city has to offer locals and tourists alike. Parks, and art are bountiful in this city. I was able to see the work of Banksy at the MOCO, a quite diverse selection of works at the Van Gogh museum, and the historic Anne Frank House. Before you go, please note some of these museums require reservations and ticketing far in advance, so be prepared for disappointment if you do not do your research and plan ahead.
The prostitution museum is also quite famous. You can find discounted tickets to this exhibit at most of the hotels.
I like to utilize the hop on hop off bus/ boat system to visit as many of the cities attractions as possible in a succinct manner. There are always things on the tour I know nothing about and I am happy to learn.




The well known components of Amsterdam like prostitution and marijuana aren't as "in your face" and offensive as you would believe (by American standards). Amsterdam has a come as you are attitude, and doesn't push who they are on you. Oh, but you want it. You want to inhale it all, because it is magnificent.
The bars and restaurants are very European, almost with a Parisian cafe air, but with German styled sausage and beers. Fries, cheese and local meats define the delicious tastes found in most eateries here. You can find international fare of all types as well as you travel down the winding side streets and canal lined avenues.

There is a natural social ambiance which lends itself to a sense of unity and community living. One of my favorite moments in Amsterdam was standing on the canal watching a man in a rowboat in a yellow rain jacket play the trumpet while a church bell nearby responded to the tune. All while it rained and an audience of probably 200 people stood and enjoyed the musical dialogue. This interaction gifted me my biggest smile the entire trip.

Watch out for the bicyclists. In the spirit of NYC bike couriers, they are everywhere. They will run you down, then curse you out for not watching where you are going. There are areas of downtown where you must be so careful entering and exiting buildings and crossing the street. There are dedicated bike lanes everywhere.  It is quite apparent that most visitors are not used to this, and do not know how to accommodate.

IAmsterdam

The foodie revolution is in full swing in Amsterdam. Like the rest of the world, top tier tastes and flavors have mutated all over the city. I had great food at my hotel, as well as downtown. Even the bar food I tasted was well above par. International favorites and local cuisine alike were both above standard.

Trendy bars such as Icebar combine tourism and chilled liquor in a friendly and unique atmosphere that even impressed me. They even provide coats, gloves and hats to enter into the arctic back room bar where the frozen shot glasses are kept. The Heineken brewery is also a big tourist favorite. I did not visit the brewery, but the canal stop is a busy intersection of the city where many locals and tourists meet and gather for socializing.

Amsterdam has all the qualities of a great international city. It is livable and walk-able, and most certainly bike-able, but overall has the vibe of a down to earth culture of individuals who just live and let live. It is remarkably simple, and they get it. The art scene is magnificent, and they do a grand job of highlighting the historic value of the city. IAmsterdam is a slogan I can relate to.

L'Interessante Montreal

House of Jazz

Montreal is world renown as a true international city. Revered for their food, art and as an international community, Montreal presents itself as sophisticated. As a true foodie and artist, I looked forward to visiting this ever-hot city. It also offered me the chance to practice my French.

Travelling to Montreal brought me one step closer to my full Canadian experience. Since last summer, I have been making my way across Canada trying on each city like new heels I may like to own. I loved the laid back, seaside lifestyle of Victoria, B.C. I thought Vancouver was subtly the best city I have ever loved, with their stunning downtown. North Vancouver reminded me so much of Colorado, I looked at real estate. Very livable for me.

downtown eateries/ breweries

Montreal is reputed the foodie and international scene of the Canadian territories. The bi-lingual city offers an immediate feeling of culture and a savvy pretense.
The Francophiles here are prominent and English is the second language spoken in Montreal.
I visited in the winter, so the music, and social feel of the city were low-key. There were many venues,but not many were open or had much going on while I visited. Even the restaurants seemed to have limited hours, even on the weekends, most places were not open until lunch or dinner. This is surprising for a town known for their food.
Again, I attributed this to the season and the brutal snow and ice. (note: there were many signs "Danger: Chute de Glace" warning of ice falling from the rooftops in downtown. This is a serious warning, and the melting ice chunks could kill you.)

I was able to find poutine despite the limited hours of available restaurants. If you are not familiar with poutine, it is similar to cheese curds smothered in a delicious gravy.
Hearty, comfort food, perfect for the weather. Canada is known for it's poutine and it was mmm mmm good.

underground transit

This is a walk-able city, yet equipped with a transit system that is exemplary. It was extremely easy to get around downtown and to other outlying areas.
I felt extremely safe taking the train or the bus as well as walking around the area downtown.

The beauty of the city of Montreal is partially due to the mixture of old and new. The architecture and streets went from cobblestone and quaint brick buildings to charming townhouses and trendy, hip streets with wine shops and hookah bars. This mix gives the allure of a European city with New World values. It is interesting to move between the two concepts from street to street. Respecting the old but having access to the new. 

A true urban mecca on some level. Yet, actually meeting people, or more so the level of friendliness was unfortunately not what I have experienced in other Canadian cities. Montreal is far more urban, with a big city feel even though it is an extremely small city. Not much warmth between tourists and locals. Montreal wears the attitude of some of the up and coming American cities that have found sudden popularity. Cities like Denver and Austin, for example, that used to be chill and became popular with new microbreweries, live music and wonderful eateries - now these cities are filled with transplants who think they are adding to the energy when in fact they are sucking it dry, not adding anything...at all.

McGill University, Montreal

With McGill University located in the heart of downtown Montreal, the university atmosphere lends an air of intellectualism which may also add to some of the pretense of the city. The campus itself is very laid back and extremely quiet. I visited one of the bookstores on campus, expecting a campus buzz. You know that feeling, when you are surrounded by people whose minds are open to learning something, anything new? It was super quiet, nondescript even. I was able to purchase a book, grab a coffee, and sit and read in a surreal peace.
The university is a beautifully succinct campus, even though smack dab in the center of this metropolis.

The historic architecture is extremely interesting. I do not which I was more intrigued by; the old historic buildings with the history of Montreal depicting the standing culture of the city, or the newer architectural projects which have been introduced. Montreal has very innovative architects and scientists changing the scope of architecture, as well as science. It is fascinating.

downtown Montreal

 I happened upon a wedding at the Cathedral Notre Dame the weekend we arrived. It was so striking to see the wedding party dressed to the nines entering this beautiful cathedral. The processional was nothing but respectful of this historical building and the vows this couple chose to take here. The attendees of the wedding also quietly entered the building with the divine love and respect for the couple as well as the history that was being made in the building they were entering.

Notre Dame

Montreal Bio-dome

 There were two buildings I needed to see. I am always interested in the ecosystems of other countries, and had researched the Bio-dome prior to this trip. It is interesting to witness the future forward thinking shown in the design(s) and the concepts regarding the future of our populations and the environment. The Montreal Bio-dome was the first place I wanted to visit. I am completely impressed with the technology and potential for a more eco-friendly world.

The second structure was built by an Israeli/ Canadian architect named Moshe Safdie. Habitat 67 was originally designed as a thesis project. The intent was to project a housing development for overpopulated, fast growing, urban cities with a design that allowed for more of a suburban feel. The development(s) would include gardens and allow for more unit by unit privacy by the multi-tiered design. Still a brilliant idea, even if considered a failed experiment in Montreal due to the end price point for each unit.



Montreal is beyond interesting. I hope I get the chance to revisit the city again soon to appreciate more of the offerings of this diverse and intuitive hot spot.

CUBA: La Habana

I have been looking forward to visiting Cuba for as long as I can remember. I do not know when I read my first Hemingway novel. Even at age twelve I was destined to visit this beautiful island. To see travel restrictions lifted in my lifetime is a blessing long awaited.
Cubans take the People to People educational aspect very seriously. I found this enlightening and welcoming in my visit. I appreciated the opportunity to talk one on one with any and all locals that were happy and available to speak wih me about their lovey country.
There are many choices to stay in regards to hotels, Air BnB's, hostels, etc. There are also a range of prices to choose from in accommodations. Something to suit anyone's needs. AirBnB's which run from $60US to high end hotels which start at over $200US (or CUC) per night. The exchange rate is dollar to dollar and it is good to know, they do not accept credit cards. So, come cash ready, but know there are cash agencies all over the city (and in major hotels) that will exchange dollars for CUC.

We have all seen the photos of vintage cars and luxurious hotels back-dropped against the most wondrous sunsets in the world. We have also heard the music, and felt the rhythm as we have watched Cuban men and women salsa and rumba with their very own distinctive style. It is contagious and sexy.

I walked through the streets listening for the music...and it drew me in. At one point I had just sat down in the lobby of a hotel to rest my weary feet when I heard a trumpet, and then the drums. I jumped up and ran towards the street and here they came. It was like the pied piper luring followers through the streets enticing us with each note. The dancers calling to us with their movements and joy.

The art, the music, the people, the costumes, the dance, LIFE. The stories and history. I ate it up like a starved child eats porridge. Oh, and the food. The combination of Caribbean flavors and international food choices was undeniably unique and satisfying. The combination of African Cuban spices and traditional meals are the existence of today's Cuba. Cured meats, sausages, rice and beans. a warm beer. This is a good meal shared among friends and family on this small, beautiful island. We began our food journey at a place called Topoly, an Iranian restaurant within walking distance of our Air BnB. Beautiful environment with great service and the most wonderful fare. I found out a vegetarian burger meant falafel and the spices were mainly middle eastern in taste. We also had the chance to eat at opening night at a place called Area 23 - very much like Tapas, it was small plates with wonderful local flavors. We had mixed sausages and everything had the most taste sensational sensual flavors. The restaurant was family run and also had a great local drink menu. Ambiance and deliciousness all wrapped up in one spot.

The composition of the city itself was easy to discern - Art and vintage defined everything.
The old cars, and bikes, and horses which still pulled goods on trucks and trolleys defined the feel of the mood of Havana. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary. Seeing a man on a horse, pulling goods on a cart seemed normal. Bicycles in the center square making time to work all seemed normal. Watching the hordes of women get on buses or in cars were the norm. ARE the norm. Because the change of the world around them changed and grew, did nothing to adjust the norm of the traditional day in the life of Cuba. Walking to work. Dropping a quarter into a payphone on the street to telephone a friend - this was still the same day to day as existed 50 years ago and still existed today. This Havana.

 

The cats of Havana were

 an enigma in itself. They were everywhere but unlike cats of other countries, Puerto rico for example, the cats of Havana owned the island. This was their domicile. Every corner, every street alley, every turn, a cat would make eye contact - not move, not adjust for man or tourist. My street, my life...the cats seemed to say, through their eyes - not needing to explain, not needing to own their words. They own their lives. Solely. Proudly.


The art districts and music of Cuba are somewhat historically self-defined, but you can never imagine the richness of the soul of Cuba until you hear it and see it for yourself.  The food as well, has layers and layers of flavors and differences that make the Cuban food game the top of its tier.

Calle de Hamel/Afro Cuban art district

I had coffee on my last morning with the host of the AirBnB which we rented, and it was the most open, honest, relate-able conversation I have had in a long time. It offered not only historic value, but a cultural insight and an immediate comraderie between women which came simply from the context of the conversation and the honesty with which Sol, our host, answered. I hope to have the chance to host her in the future and share with her as she did with me. There are certain things we can always share as human beings; stories of our children, societal issues, history, family pride, food - these things will always connect us when we make time to listen.

Find more travel photos/ video on my youtube channel, Cuba

A great thanks to the people of Cuba for allowing us to visit to see, to share their lives...again.